Ocmulgee National Monument is one of the most powerful power
points in Georgia. Y Tylwyth Teg originally visited the Mounds in 1972 where we
performed a "Mound of Earth Ritual" We were chased out of the park because
we were burning incense. We have revisited the park over fifty times since then,
and recommend it for its purity of energy.
For more than 10,000 years before the
appearance of the white man, the ancestors of the Creek Indian peoples lived here along
the fertile banks of the Ocmulgee River on what is now known as the Ocmulgee National
Monument, near Macon Georgia. The monument offers a view of the ancient past through
what has been touted as the "largest archeological development east of the
Mississippi."
Attractions at the Ocmulgee National Monument, site of what was formerly known as the
Ocmulgee Old Fields, include a prehistoric earthlodge and artifacts from six distinct
Indian groups who lived on the 702-acre site. Many the artifacts on display at the
archeological museum were unearthed during archeological digs earlier this century.
The Ocmulgee National Monument was opened in 1936 and is operated by the National Park
Service, which preserves the mounds and the three and a half miles of nature trails. The
attraction is open daily, 9:00a.m. to 5:00p.m. year-round except for Christmas and New
Years day. Admission is always free, and a gift shop and theater in the visitor's center
is available.
Ocmulgee, meaning "boiling water",
is from the Hitchiti tongue, a dialect spoken among the Lower Creeks. It is
pronounced as though spelled oak-mull-ghee (the g hard) with the stress on the second
syllable. That pronunciation is preferred by the Bureau of American Ethnology.
It prevails today throughout the Ocmulgee River valley of middle Georgia.
According to Creek tradition, Ocmulgee was the site of the first permanent Creek
settlement after migration of the tribe from the West.
Ocmulgee is a memorial to the antiquity of man in this corner of the North American
continent. From Ice-Age hunters to the Creeks of historic times, there is evidence here of
10,000 years of human habitation. One period stands out. Between AD 900 and 1100 a
skillful farming people lived on this site. Known to us as Mississippians, they were part
of a distinctive culture which crystallized about AD 750 in the middle Mississippi Valley
and over the next seven centuries spread along riverways throughout much of the central
and eastern United States. The Mississippians brought a more complex way of life to the
region. Though far removed from such Mississippian centers as Cahokia in Illinois and
Moundville in Alabama, the people here were the heirs of an ascendant culture and enjoyed
a life as rich as any north of Mexico.
The Mississippians at Ocmulgee were intruders of a sort. They apparently displaced the
native woodland Indians, though there is no evidence of conflict. The newcomers were a
sedentary people who lived mainly by farming bottomlands for crops of corn, beans, squash,
pumpkins, and tobacco. They built a compact town of thatched huts on the bluff overlooking
the river. More than a thousand persons lived here at one time. For their public
ceremonies, they leveled an area near the river and began constructing a series of earth
mounds-places important in their religion and politics. They did not build the mounds to
full height all at once but raised them at intervals over the years, perhaps as new
leaders came to power or in response to cycles about which we can only speculate.
Another structure central to life here was the earthlodge. There were several at Ocmulgee.
The one best preserved has been reconstructed. It is 42-feet in diameter. Opposite the
entrance is a clay platform shaped like a large bird. There are three seats on the
platform and 47 on the bench around the wall. In the center of the lodge is a firepit.
This building may have been either a winter temple or a year-round council house. The 50
or so persons who met here were probably the group's leaders.
The mound on the town's west side was apparently a place for burials. Like the temple
mounds, the Funeral Mound was flat topped and equipped with steps leading up the side to
some kind of mortuary building. More than 100 burials have been found here. Some had
elaborate shell and copper ornaments, suggesting high status, but most had no offerings.
The Mississippians seem to have had some influence on the surrounding population (mound-
building, rudimentary farming), but we are far from knowing the real nature of the
transactions between them. Nor do we know why the town declined or what happened to the
inhabitants- whether they died out, migrated elsewhere, or were assimilated. Whatever
their fate, by 1100 Ocmulgeewas no longer a thriving outpost of Mississippian culture.
Over the next two centuries, the native Indians, their style of life irrevocably altered,
made occasional use of the old townsite. Then in the 1300s a new culture arose and
spread widely through the Southeast. Known as the Lamar culture, it appears to have been a
blending of Mississippian and Woodland elements. The Lamar people were farmers, skilled
hunters, and mound-builders whose distinctive pottery employed designs peculiar to both
their Woodland and Mississippian predecessors. They also made some use of the old town
site, then fallen into ruins. One of their major centers was the Lamar site, several miles
away in the swamps along the Ocmulgee River. This village contained two temple mounds and
was surrounded by a stockade. It was the Lamar people that Hernando de Soto encountered in
1540 on the first European expedition into this region.
The arrival of Europeans was catastrophic for the natives. Disease
caused staggering losses, and they were drawn into the white man's trading world and his
political disputes, with a corresponding collapse of their traditional way of life. The
English set up a trading post at Ocmulgee sometime around 1690, and Creeks settled here in
numbers. By 1715 the site was again abandoned as warfare between English and Spanish
colonials inflamed the frontier. Within a few decades there were few vestiges of
Mississippian life anywhere and virtually no understanding of the culture. When the
pioneer naturalist William Bartram saw Ocmulgee in the 1770s, he spoke with respect
mingled with incomprehension of "the wonderful remains of the power and grandeur of
the ancients in this part of America."
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